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The Poker Professionals Association

Research Chapter

04

BASIC STRATEGY

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Before continuing with more advanced research, we would like to get back to basics. We find that most players, even many seasoned "pros" many times do not take full advantage of the winning edge good basic strategy provides.

With this in mind, we present you with some of what we think are some of the most helpful basic strategy tips.

 

GAME SELECTION

Before selecting a table, observe the play at that table to get a feel for the level of play. Evaluate objectively, before playing, your skill level in relation to the players you are observing. In particular, look for the number of incorrect decisions you can spot players make; naturally, the more incorrect decisions the players make, the more profitable the game will be for you. If you do not observe a beatable game within 10-15 deals, choose another table or game that you feel is more profitable.

A good game(profitable game) is worth waiting for. Chances are that you don't need to play just for the practice.

Remember that good game selection will account for most of your profit, so it is well worth the investment in time to locate the best game you can.

 

BASIC STRATEGY

Before joining a game, get 2 or 3 cushions to sit on. It will not only improve your comfort level. It will also elevate you in height above most players, giving you a psychological advantage, as most players are uncomfortable at a lower level than you. An additional benefit is your ability to see distant cards more clearly as you have a much better viewing angle. Sound like a small trick, but well worth the effort. If you are not already doing this, try it, You'll notice the difference.

By the way, remove your wallet from your back pocket and put it in a front pocket before sitting down, it will save your butt and help prevent lower back pain, particularly in long games.

 

CHIP STRATEGY

When buying Checks (Chips) always purchase more than you anticipate needing. A good estimate is 100 large bets. For a 10/20 game that would be $2,000 in checks.

Whenever possible, buy your chips before being seated.

This is substantially more than most players start with;however, there are several benefits to this strategy:

1. You enter the game in a dominant position, as most players assume you have already won most of your chips at another table, or at the very least, are a winning player who can afford to play well financed.

2. You can bet correctly without considering how many checks you have.

3. It allows you to roll over many weaker or less capitalized players. This is particularly important in a bluff, semi-bluff, or pot stealing situation.

4. It allows you to avoid the weak/losing player tag of having to rebuy checks while playing.

5. If you ever hold a Royal Flush heads up against a Straight Flush, it will undoubtedly happen when you are low on checks and unable to bet it out. (And it will be a lesson you will never forget)

6. Most importantly, it doesn't cost you anything to buy more checks, as you can cash them in after you finish playing.

Question: Sure, you say, but what if I buy more checks than I can afford to lose?

Answer: 1. If you can't afford to lose, you can't afford to play. 2. Since you will probably buy more checks anyway, if you do lose, this is no protection against losing. It only prevents you from playing properly. Play well financed, or find a lower limit game you can play correctly with your bankroll.

Question: How about just having a few $100 bills stacked by the checks, just in case they are needed. Wouldn't this serve the same purpose as a larger amount of checks?

Answer: No. Although you might have the same amount of money to play with, you lose most of the advantages you would have with checks, plus you are not really saving anything. In addition, you would now face two negatives: 1. you are already psychologically setting yourself up to lose. After all, why else would you need to dip into your cash reserve?

2. Betting Cash, particularly reserve cash, is more difficult than checks; therefore, you are more likely to underbet in order to save your cash. Which puts you in the unenviable position of trying not to lose rather than trying to win.

 

AGGRESSION STRATEGY

The truly Professional Poker Player could be described as passive/aggressive. Passive when not playing and aggressively betting each played hand.

Aggression, as related to betting, is the primary tool of the Pro. Indeed, it is difficult to imagine any professional player not betting a hand for all it's worth and a few times, more than it's worth.

Most nonprofessional players feel that aggressive betting is too costly, unless they are certain they have the winning hand. The Pro will aggressively bet any advantage, with no assurance of actual having the winning hand on that round, but confident of winning in the long run,

We are not speaking here of players who are physically aggressive, loud, drunk or otherwise out of control. The Professional's aggression is only demonstrated by the size and number of bets and raises.

Often the easiest way to identify a weak player is their reluctance to bet or raise, choosing instead to habitually call in the belief that winning poker consists of saving as many bets as possible, while waiting for a perfect hand. We can think of no more certain way of losing, slowly, but losing nevertheless.

If your hand is not good enough to raise with, maybe it isn't good enough to play with? ....Something to think about.

 

HAND SELECTION

Many players, even professional players, tend to under rate the value of starting hand selection.

Some players do so in the mistaken belief that any hand can improve to win. While this is true, not enough actually do this to make it profitable. Making even a small error in judgement on starting hands is probably the most expensive error in poker as it can hook you into an expensive second best hand.

Sure, we know, sometimes you just get bored, or tired or a little on tilt or whatever. In any event you forget why you play. TO WIN MONEY !!!

So the next time you are tempted to get a little out of line or need a break, take a break, ...it is less expensive.

If you are one of the pros using the Poker-Pro Point System you have probably found it helpful in avoiding this common pitfall and keeping you off tilt.

 

 

For your convenience in relationship to the current topic, and as a continous reference, the poker point system is attached below.

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POKER PRO POINT SYSTEM

With the point system we assign each card a specific relative value or points. As expected, the Ace receives the highest value; however, you will note that cards rankings from 8 down receive no value, unless paired, connected or suited.

For learning purposes, we are using Texas Hold'em Poker game primarily because it is currently the leading money game both for tournaments and live play and it the easiest to use to demonstrate the point system, as only two cards are dealt each player initially. Naturally we will cover the use of the Point System in other primary poker games in later research chapters.

Individual Card Point Values:

  • A= 6 points
  • K= 5 points
  • Q= 4 points
  • J = 3 points
  • 10=2 points
  • 9 = 1 points
  • 8 = 0 points
  • 7 = 0 points
  • 6 = 0 points
  • 5 = 0 points
  • 4 = 0 points
  • 3 = 0 points
  • 2 = 0 points

Pairs receive an extra value of 8 points.

Suited cards receive an extra value of 3 points.

Connected cards receive an extra value of 2 points.

Suited cards are written with a small "s" as: KJ's

Connected cards refers to directly adjacent cards such as: KQ or AK or KQ or QJ, not KJ or AQ.

Examples of values of first two cards dealt in Texas Hold'em:

  • AA=20 points (6 points for each ace plus 8 points for a pair)
  • KK=18 points (5 points for each king plus 8 points for a pair)
  • QQ=16 points (4 points for each queen plus 8 points for a pair)
  • AK's=16 points (6 points for the ace, 5 points for the king plus 3 points for being suited and 2 points for being connected)
  • JJ=14 points (3 points for each jack plus 8 points for a pair)
  • KQ's=14 points (5 points for the king, 4 points for the queen plus 3 points for being suited and 2 points for being connected)
  • AK=13 points (6 points for the ace, 5 points for the king plus 2 points for being connected)
  • AQ's=13 points (6 points for the ace, 4 points for the queen plus 3 points for being suited)
  • T,T=12 points (2 points for each ten plus 8 points for a pair)
  • AJ's=12 points (6 points for the ace, 3 points for the jack plus 3 points for being suited)
  • AT's=11 points (6 points for the ace, 2 points for the ten plus 3 points for being suited)
  • KJ's=11 points (5 points for the king, 3 points for the jack plus 3 points for being suited)
  • KQ=11 points (5 points for the king, 4 points for the queen plus 2 points for being connected)
  • 9,9=10 points (1 point for each 9 plus 8 points for a pair)
  • AQ=10 points (6 points for the ace, 4 points for the queen)

It is interesting to note the value difference of 3 points between AQ's and AQ. This demonstrates the importance of suiting and is helpful in evaluating the correct value of a AQ starting hand. Suited it is definitely playable while unsuited it can be a marginal hand often played for more than it's worth.

 

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